Tuesday, 29 May 2018

How to spend a summer as an exchange student in Ghent

Or: The Survival Guide no one asked for















About this time last year, I embarked on an Erasmus research internship adventure which led me to Ghent, Belgium. At some point during my stay, I started to collate some useful information I wish I'd had at the beginning of it all. It's a non-exhaustive list, but it's a start, and even if no one reads it, I feel like it's still worthwhile to put it out there, just in case. So here we go...


LIVING IN STUDENT ACCOMMODATION



















Moving into halls can be a bit uncomfortable, but once you’ve settled in, it will be fine. Some advice for the beginning:

Don’t forget to buy toilet paper, dishwashing liquid, and some sponges/cloths on your first trip to the supermarket. Also, get some soap if you’re feeling fancy.

Additionally, you will need cooking equipment, dishes, and cutlery. While it's certainly helpful to bring some essentials from home (a good kitchen knife and a small bowl for instance), you don’t have to pack pots, pans and the like. There are plenty of kringwinkels in Gent where you can get second hand stuff for cheap. I got lucky at Ateljee. (20c for a plate - what?!)

Also, before you make that comfy bed of yours, check for signs of bed bugs. I'm speaking from plenty of personal experience here. (I got unlucky twice, maybe even three times, but I try not to think about it too hard.) Red flags are black spots on the mattress, sheets, and/or walls, as well as the bugs themselves. Google image search to find out more!



HOW TO GET AROUND















Get yourself a bike. Really, this is obligatory.
I’ve only recently realised how slow walking is compared to biking. With a bike, you are so much more independent: You can discover even the most remote parts of the city.
Don’t worry, you'll be in good company. Everything in Gent is welcoming towards cyclists: There are designated cycling tracks on the streets and fiets parking opportunities everywhere. Plus, car drivers are used to bikes and therefore pay more attention to cyclists - at least that’s been my impression.
As a student, you can rent a bike for a minimum period of 3 months from the Fietsambassade Gent. They offer reasonable rates and an affordable repair service.

However, do NOT - and by that I mean under NO circumstances - ride your bike on Overpoortstraat. Unless of course you want to spend 15€ to get a new tire each time you accidentally speed through a broken glass bottle some party animal has left behind. But no matter where you bike: ALWAYS look out for glass shards!

If your bike breaks during the weekend and you don’t know where to go (because bikes don’t care if you've got a flat tire on a Sunday morning and you’ve got to get to work on Monday somehow), do not fret: In the city centre, right next to Korenmarkt, you can find a Fietsambassade branch which is open on weekends (at least during the summer). They are located in the corner under the City Hall, next to Belfort Stadscafe.


HOW TO COMMUNICATE















Knowing a bit of Dutch has certainly helped me. Being able to read signs, descriptions, menus, and itineraries and understanding bits and pieces of conversations is an asset. Nevertheless, I’ve yet to encounter a Belgian who doesn't speak at least a bit of English. Most of them are happy to switch languages should you be having trouble with Dutch.
French and German are less common in Flanders than I thought; most locals don’t really speak those languages. Nevertheless, products in supermarkets as well as explanations in museums for example always come in Dutch, French, and English, and sometimes even in German.
For basic level Dutch knowledge, try Duolingo. It’s a fun way to learn and motivates you to keep going. If you want to practice when you’re in Ghent, try TaalcafĂ© Macharius. They host fortnightly (less during the summer) evening sessions where people converse with others in a language of their choosing. Go to their website and email Wim, the organiser, to find out more about how it works.

For convenience, here are the most basic useful Dutch phrases that will help you handle at least a couple of everyday interactions:
hallo - hello
ja - yes
nee - no
alstublieft (formal) / alsjeblieft - please / you are welcome
dankuwel (formal) / dankjewel - thank you
ik spreek engels - i speak english
spreekt u engels? (formal) / spreek je engels? - do you speak english?



WHAT TO DO















Maps.Me has saved my life a couple of times already, and I would recommend it to anyone. It lets you download maps for specific areas (i.e., cities) onto your phone, where you can then access them offline. You can also save locations, and it even has a “search” function: When you get completely lost, just enter the name on the street sign in front of you and find out where you are!

Moreover, the Use-it City Guides are gems. Have a look at them online or pick one up at the tourist information. They have a map for almost every bigger city in Belgium, which makes taking weekend trips a whole lot easier!

Some other things to check out:
Need a (physical) book to read? - English Book Shop
Want to cuddle a cat to let off some steam? - DreamCATchers
Vintage shopping? - ThinkTwice
Bored and broke? - Gratisingent Facebook


WHAT TO EAT















Belgian chocolate is really as good as they say. I bought some cheap vegan dark chocolate (DelHaize Home Brand) on my first day and was astonished that it tasted better than most chocolate brands they sell in the UK and in Germany. You can of course play the tourist and go into real chocolate souvenir shops, but honestly, every supermarket will do. So far, Tony’s Chocolonely is my favourite. (It’s a Dutch company, but who cares? They use Belgian chocolate, so that counts!)

Apart from the usual ALDI and LIDL (where you can get your fruits and veggies for cheap), there are two big supermarket chains that you will encounter time and again.
Albert Heijn is the cheaper one of the two, open Mon-Sat. Two of their branches are conveniently located at Overpoort and Korenmarkt. Their homebrand stuff is good, and they also stock some popular brands whose products are on offer sometimes.
DelHaize is great for Sundays and holidays. (Be aware that most of their branches are closed on Saturdaya though.) Their stores give off more of a “Tesco Metro” vibe, but maybe that’s just because I’ve only been to the “Proxy” branches so far. There, stuff is a bit more expensive, but not so much that it really hurts. The self-serving tills let you pay by credit card, but don’t throw your receipt away - you will need to scan it in order to get out.

There’s a lot of veggie appreciation in Gent. Even though vegan options are not as widely available as in Berlin or London, they are there. Some restaurants are even completely plant-based, which is really cool. Below you can find a list of places that I’ve been to and approve of.
Mie Vie - great sandwiches
Madam Bakster - gluten- and sugar-free baked goods and home-made plant milks
Hashtag Falafel - self-explanatory
Full Circle Coffee - nice vegan coffee place

De Frietketel - traditional Belgian fried fast food with lots of veggie and vegan options
V-Box - kick-ass vegan street food (freak shakes, stuffed waffles, and other treats)
















I hope some aspects of this post were useful to someone out there. If you didn't benefit from reading the above, I hope that you at least enjoyed it. On the off-chance that you've got anything to add or any opinions you'd like to voice, you know how to leave a comment. :)

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